Toulon Guide. Leisure Guides.

Although Toulon is the fourth largest city on France’s Mediterranean coast, it’s compact and very easy to get around on foot. Buses operate from around 5.30am to 9pm; on Fridays and Saturdays, Les Nocturnes service runs from 9pm to 12.30am. Taxis are available at the station and the port.

 

Toulon is on a main TGV line so it’s well connected to France’s other major towns and cities, and from the next-door bus station it’s easy to get to other places in the Var department including Saint Tropez, which is a two-hour journey. About 20 kilometres east of Toulon is the town of Hyères which is noted for its quaint Old Town and gorgeous gardens, and a fun way to get there is by bike along the cycle path; the tourist office will have information about the route and bike-hire shops. Shuttle boats are a popular way to explore the coast.

Unlike its neighbours on the French Riviera, Toulon has a dearth of luxury accommodation. Top of the range is the four-star Holiday Inn Garden Court (1 avenue Rageot de la Touche), which has a swimming pool in its favour. One of the nicest hotels in the city centre is Grand Hôtel de la Gare (14 boulevard Tesse), conveniently situated opposite the train station, which has bright rooms decorated in contemporary Provençal style. Celenya Hôtel (7 bis rue de Chabannes) near Place de la Liberté, a magnificent tree-lined plaza with a fountain, has 29 colourful rooms – some with four posters – each of whose style is inspired by one of the five continents.

 

Near the airport, the Giens Peninsula and the attractive town of Hyères have a wide variety of accommodation, from campsites to beachside boutique hotels, including the modern Mercure Hyères Centre (19 avenue Ambroise Thomas) in the town centre.

 

The nightlife in Toulon doesn’t quite match up to the other cities on the French Riviera – the only decent club is Club 44 (44 boulevard de Strasbourg), which has a young clientele and dance music on the turntables. However, in a city full of sailors, there are a few gay options including Boy’s Paradise (1 boulevard Pierre Toesca) and Pussy Cat (655 avenue Claret).

 

Live music venues include Le Bar à Thym (32 boulevard Docteur Cunéo), 113 Café (113 avenue de l’Infanterie de Marine) and jazz club Studio 11 (6 boulevard Commandant Nicolas). L’Arbre à Bulles (7 rue Jean Aircard) is a cosy cocktail bar; trendy La Tortue (71 quai de la Sinse) boasts a resident DJ; while Le Navigateur (128 avenue de la République) has a good choice of beers.

 

Highbrow types should check out the city’s impressive 19th-century opera house, which is the second largest opera house in France.

There are no Michelin stars in Toulon but for fine dining on a Provençal theme head to La Chanterelle (50 rue de la Tartane, Le Pradet), situated in a flower-filled garden; Le Gros Ventre (279 littoral Frédéric Mistral), next to the sea in Mourillon; or Les Pins Penchés (3182 avenue de la Résistance), housed in an elegant villa with a seaside terrace and garden.

 

Local favourites include La Promesse (250 rue Jean Jaurès), where the young female chef gives an international twist to regional produce, and the fashionable beach café-bar Le Satyn’s (Promenade Henri Fabre, Mourillon), whose menu features tapas and pasta with live music most nights. The food at La Bouche et L’Oreille (1 avenue de l’Infanterie de Marine) has an Asian influence and there’s live jazz on Saturday evenings. Art Café (10 rue Bon Pasteur) is the place to go for a homemade snack or a cake. 

No trip to Provence would be complete without visiting a food market, and Toulon’s, which takes place each morning from Tuesday to Sunday on Cours Lafayette, is reputedly the largest in the region; each afternoon, the produce is replaced by crafts and flowers. 

 

Like most French cities, Toulon has a branch of the department store Galeries Lafayette (9 boulevard de Strasbourg) as well as a workaday shopping mall, Centre Mayol (Rue du Mûrier), housing high-street brands.

 

To buy some of the coveted Var wines, head to Les Quilles (6 place d’Armes) while Gaudefroy (157 boulevard Général Leclerc) is the place to go for gourmet foodstuffs. Colourful Provençal fabrics can be found at Les Toiles de Provence (2 place Hubac), while La Boutique de Provence (42 rue Paul Landrin) has a vast selection of Marseille soaps. Rugby fans should sidestep to the club’s shop (36 rue d’Alger) for a souvenir shirt.

 

Top 5 sights for first-timers

 

For magnificent views over Toulon and coast, take the cable car up to Mont Faron. At the top is a zoo specialising in the conservation of big cats and a museum dedicated to the Allied landings in 1944. It’s also good walking country.

 

Boulevard Amiral Vence

 

As well as from Mont Faron, Toulon’s beautiful bay is best viewed from the sea. From May to October, hour-long boat trips pass the naval base (home to submarines and France’s immense aircraft carrier, Charles de Gaulle) and 17th-century military fortifications.

 

 

Musée National de la Marine

Housed in the former arsenal and accessed via a monumental doorway, this museum is one of France’s five national museums dedicated to naval history. Apart from models of boats, there is an area dedicated to Vauban – the country’s celebrated 17th-century military engineer.

 

Place Monsenergue, Quai de Norfolk

 

The reason to visit the Musée d’Art is to see the collection of 19th-century Provençal art, which includes paintings by landscape specialists, Fauves and symbolists. Works range from the 15th to the 20th century and also encompass photography by the likes of Cartier-Bresson.

 

113 boulevard Général Leclerc

 

As well as permanent exhibitions on the geology, archaeology, botany and zoology of the area, the museum holds temporary exhibitions on the biodiversity and ecosystems of the Var and beyond. Its palm-filled 19th-century garden is also worth a wander.

 

737 chemin du Jonquet

 

Top 5 sights for old hands

 

About 25 kilometres off the coast of Toulon is the lovely little island of Porquerolles, the largest of the three ‘Iles d’Or’. Boat trips run most days between May and September with ample time for coastal walks, a picnic and swimming in the turquoise waters.

 

 

Maison de la Photographie

In the heart of the Old Town, this bright space showcases works by contemporary regional photographers and has a collection of images by those who inspired them, including Willy Ronis, Robert Doisneau andMan Ray.

 

Place du Globe, Rue Nicolas Laugier

 

On the western side of Toulon in La Seyne sur Mer, once renowned for having the best shipyards in Europe, is Fort Balaguier. Built in 1634 to guard the entrance to the bay, it now houses a museum focused on local maritime history and Toulon’s old prison.

 

924 corniche Bonaparte, La-Seyne-sur-Mer

 

Toulon is home to one of France’s top rugby clubs, which takes part in the Heineken Cup and Amlin Challenge Cup and whose current squad includes Jonny Wilkinson and the Armitage brothers. Catch a match during your stay – they take place from August to May.

 

Stade Félix Mayol

 

Opposite the beaches of Mourillon, this 19th-century garden is a lovely place for an evening stroll underneath the palm trees. Its south-facing aspect ensures the growth of many exotic trees and plants, and there’s a kids’ playground and a tennis court too.

 

Littoral Frédéric Mistral

The Giens Peninsula, which juts out into the sea about 30 kilometres east of Toulon, is one of the world’s best spots for windsurfing. The place to go is the Plage de l’Almanarre where there are schools for all levels.

 

On the outskirts of Toulon is the district of Mourillon, which is noted for its sheltered, sandy, public and private Blue Flag beaches. The area is great for families as there are plenty of facilities, and it’s wheelchair-accessible too.

 

Around the coast of Brittany stretches the 18th-century ‘sentier des douaniers’ (naval officers’ path), and the nicest section in Toulon is between Port Saint-Louis and the Anse Magaud. The four-hour round trip passes little creeks and military fortifications.

 

The nearest best place to play a round is Golf de Valgarde (Chemin de Rabasson, La Garde), an 18-hole course which is suitable for beginners to pros. There is also a driving range, pitch and putt, and lessons on offer. 

 

This part of the coast offers a multitude of opportunities for interesting dives including wrecks and caves; the clear waters around the Iles d’Or are particularly popular.  As a result, Toulon has several dive schools. 

A wonderful opportunity to sample some of France’s best wines and produce over a weekend. Toulon comes alive with parades, music and cookery demonstrations.

 

Date: Late March

Venue: Place d’Armes

 

Three nights of underground rock, indie and garage music from French and international artists, beautifully situated next to the sea in Mourillon. The organisers even provide earplugs. 

 

Date: June

Venue: Tour Royale

 

Created in 1951, this festival of classical music takes place in some of the area’s most atmospheric locations. Expect everything from opera to tango and polyphonic singing.

 

Date: June-July

Venue: Various venues in Toulon and Six-Fours

 

Three weeks of free open-air jazz concerts – with a dash of other genres – by French and international artists. The early-evening apéro-concerts are a great way to kick off a night out. 

 

Date: July-August

Venue: Around the city centre

 

In keeping with its maritime history, Toulon hosts an annual festival dedicated to documentary films with a nautical theme, from underwater exploration to naval combat.

 

Date: Late September-October

Venue: Palais des Congrès Neptune