Quimper Guide. Leisure Guides.

The good news is that you don’t need a car or public transport to explore Quimper’s compact centre. Everything is readily accessible on foot - even the oldest quarter Locmaria is just a stroll away from the medieval centre along a tree-shaded riverside promenade. 

 

The bus and train stations are only 300 metres from the cathedral, and public transport to the surrounding area can be checked out in advance on www.qub.fr. The airport (6 kilometres away) is linked to the city centre by a regular bus service (Line 25), and cars can be hired on arrival.

 

The cobbled streets at the heart of the city are largely pedestrian zones. Most parking is paying, with large car parks available by the river near the tourist office. Signage to parking areas is good – look out for Theodore Le Hars, a well-priced handily placed multistorey on the left bank almost opposite the cathedral.

Quimper is not over-endowed with individualistic accommodation but some of the top chains provide good quality options around the centre. A pick of those would be the stylish and welcoming Mercure (21 bis avenue de la Gare) near the railway station. For a family-run hotel with excellent service, the Gradlon (30 rue de Brest) is the best bet, with a pretty internal courtyard for breakfast on sunny days. It is ideally located near the cathedral.

 

The Escale Oceania (6 rue Théodore Le Hars), newly refurbished for 2012 and in a very convenient location for the city centre, is a good mid-range option, right next door to a small multistorey car park.

For something more exotic and original, try the Manoir des Indes (1 allée de Prad ar C’hras), a gorgeous 18th-century house with a touch of the Orient not far from the airport.

Lovers of Celtic music and good craic should head to Le Ceili pub (4 rue Aristide Briand) where they’ll find the lively atmosphere fuelled by a large range of beers including the best local brews. Another bar with a young scene, sounds and a dance floor is Le Paradise (17 avenue de la Libération).

 

Les Naiades (108 boulevard de Créac’h Gwen) offers a house/techno sound disco from Wednesday to Saturday nights, with a pool and outdoor terrace. Le Majestic nightclub (7 avenue Georges Pompidou) has several rooms to cater for a good age range.

 

Quimper’s cultural centre, the Théâtre de Cornouaille (1 esplanade François Mitterrand), has a programme of plays, concerts and dance from September to June featuring many international artists and spectacles.

Delicious seafood, crêpes, salted caramel desserts – you can sample the best of Breton cuisine in Quimper, from the highs of Michelin-starred L’Ambroisie (49 rue Elie Fréron), where an unprepossessing exterior belies the culinary delights within, to numerous manifestations of the humble pancake. This Breton staple is raised to an authentic dining experience at traditional Au Vieux Quimper (20 rue Verdelet) and tiny La Krampouzerie (9 rue du Sallé) where they experiment with more adventurous filling options like seaweed or smoked duck.

 

The modern décor and imaginative menu at L’Épée (14 rue du Parc), not to mention a huge cocktail list, attracts a young professional clientele to this riverside brasserie, where you might find artichoke tart followed by salmon en croute. Similarly up to the minute, the excellent Le Cosy (2 rue du Sallé) combines contemporary style with deceptively simple dishes like medallions of monkfish enlivened by a kick of chilli.

Quimper has a good range of individual shops in the historic centre, where modern boutiques are located in ancient buildings. Search the rue Kéréon for clothes and shoes epitomising that distinctive French casual-chic look, or check out the rue du Frout behind the cathedral for eclectic outlets of hats, antiques, books and music.

 

Les Halles (rue Saint-François) is an indoor food market with a riot of colourful produce, from fish and cheese to quality fast-food stalls selling sushi, Moroccan snacks and crêpes. Stock up here for picnic ingredients such as large chunks of savoury tarts from Nelly Le Roy’s stall.

 

For souvenirs, it has to be Quimper’s iconic pottery, either from Henriot’s own shop in the Locmaria district (Place Bérardier), Maison A. Breton La Civette (16 bis rue du Parc) or Art de Cornouaille (12 place Saint-Corentin). Designs of peasants in traditional costumes with strong blue and yellow colouring are worldwide symbols of the city. 

Top 5 sights for first-timers

 

This glorious example of Gothic art is famous for its crooked nave. The spires and statue of legendary founder of Quimper King Gradlon are 19th-century additions, scaled by a local to fly the French flag as the Germans were driven out in 1944. Inside the cathedral, look out for the statue (and skull) of Santig Du, Quimper’s ‘Little Black Saint’.

 

Place Saint-Corentin

 

The superb Musée Départemental Breton has an exquisite selection of items illustrating the history of the Finistère region. The museum is housed in an elegant building that was erected adjoining the cathedral in the 16th century and later restored after a fire. Even a glimpse into the public entrance reveals the original 17th-century kitchen. 

 

1 rue du Roi-Gradlon

 

The city’s art gallery has Breton-themed paintings downstairs, with a room of legendary subjects including the submersion of the mythical town of Ys (the Breton Atlantis), and the bizarre nocturnal washerwomen who lure travellers on the moors to their deaths. The Max Jacob room has a fascinating collection about the Quimper-born artist and his illustrious friends Cocteau and Kit Wood. 

 

40 place Saint-Corentin

 

Opposite the Romanesque church of Notre-Dame in the Locmaria district, this is the last working outfit in an area where pottery has been produced since Roman times. You can go on a factory tour to see hand-painting of famous Quimper designs and visit the large shop.

 

Place Bérardier, Locmaria

www.henriot-quimper.com 

 

Once the site of Celtic burials and Revolutionary executions, this green hill behind the tourist office is now a quiet haven for picnics and great views over the town. Midsummer’s day is celebrated by a musical extravaganza below on the Plateau de la Déesse, where the goddess Reason was once honoured.

 

Top 5 sights for old hands

 

A famous shop in an ancient house with its statue of ‘Philomène’ on high often has queues along the street for its remarkable range of delicious macarons in all colours of the rainbow. Try very Breton flavours like salted caramel and Plougastel strawberry or more exotic seasonal specials.

 

13 rue Kéréon

www.macaron-quimper.com 

 

This metalwork footbridge was erected in 1994 for the 50th anniversary of poet and artist Max Jacob’s death. Born in Quimper, the artist went on to join the demi-monde of Montmartre, in the circle of Picasso and Modigliani. Tragically, he died in the German camp at Drancy during WWII. When the water is low, look for Modigliani’s portrait etched under the bridge.

 

This street is named after the 18th-century humbly-born son of Quimper who became a soldier of exceptional bravery in the Indian army and was made a Nabob for his services to the Grand Mogul. A painted panel portrays this unusual rise to fame and fortune.

 

A curiosity on the riverside rue du Parc where the famous Hotel de L’Épée once played host to many political figures. Follow the covered passageway right through to see an eclectic collection of Quimper memorabilia displayed in glass cases, from old LPs, lace headdresses and drawings of the medieval city, to photos of the interwar years.

 

Rue du Parc

 

Famed for its cultural offerings, the theatre is also worth a look for its modernist, industrial-style architecture. Built in 1996, it combines the Brazilian hardwood Ipe with concrete and steel. The contemporary art gallery Le Quartier, with many innovative exhibitions, is nearby.

 

1 esplanade François Mitterrand

Quimper’s iconic nine-day celebration of Celtic culture fills the streets and concert venues with an awesome mix of music and song, costumed Breton dancing and a children’s parade.

 

Date: Late July

Venue: Indoor and outdoor locations in central Quimper

 

From 9pm every Thursday in summer, enjoy the performance of a bagad (Celtic band) featuring traditional instruments like the biniou (sort of bagpipes) and bombard (wind instrument) and Breton dancing in a very central location.

 

Date: Mid-June to mid-September

Venue: Bishop’s Garden, by the cathedral

 

A host of jazz-themed performances from autumn to spring in various city centre venues. From concerts to masterclasses and the chance to chat with artists.

 

Date: October to April

Venue: Théâtre de Cornouaille and Le Ceili pub

 

La New School is an association promoting hip hop in Quimper year-round, with a festival also including all shades of rap and break dance, as well as graff music and displays by Breton graffiti artists.

 

Date: Festival held in late October-November

Venue: Various venues in Quimper

 

This annual winter festival celebrates all that’s good in pop rock, metal and electro with performances from local and international artists.

 

Date: February

Venue: Théâtre Max Jacob and other venues in Quimper